To: WSFAlist at KeithLynch.net
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 02:57:50 -0400
Subject: [WSFA] Re: Wine-tasting: it's junk science
From: <ronkean at juno.com>
Reply-To: WSFA members <WSFAlist at KeithLynch.net>

On Sun, 23 Jun 2013 11:55:50 -0400 mark <whitroth at 5-cent.us> writes:
... Over
> the
> years he has shown again and again that even trained, professional
> palates
> are terrible at judging wine.
>
... "Only
> about 10%
> of judges are consistent and those judges who were consistent one
> year were
> ordinary the next year.
>
> "Chance has a great deal to do with the awards that wines win."
> --- end excerpt ---

The notion that wine experts are terrible at judging wine doesn't square
with the observation that ordinary non-expert wine drinkers usually have
little difficulty deciding for themselves that some wines are better than
others, and some much better than others.  Retail wine prices can vary
from about $4 for a 750ml bottle, up to 20 times that price, for widely
sold wines, and it just would not make sense that the buying public pays,
say, $50 for a given wine, over, say, $10 for some other wine, unless the
$50 wine really is thought to be better than the $10 wine, at least by
those who buy the $50 wine.  Even those who buy the $10 wine might well
agree that the $50 wine is better, and the reason they don't buy the $50
wine is because of the cost.

The 'terrible' job done by the experts at the California State Fair wine
competition is probably only 'terrible' if one applies a high expectation
of consistency.  The +/- 4 point difference between judges tasting the
same wine blind, and the similar difference between the same judge
tasting the same wine more than once, and even at the same sitting, is
hardly worse than the consistency achieved by the professional tasters
employed by the three major wine rating publications.  If one wine in the
competition edges out another by just one point, then the higher rated
wine may win an award in the competition, and the lower rated one will be
a runner-up, and given the underlying variance, of course the winners
versus the near-winners will be largely a matter of chance.  But at least
the winners are very probably among the best wines in the running, as
would be the near-winners.

If there were only 3 or 4 different wines on the market, it would be easy
enough for a wine drinker to taste each of them, and decide which they
like best.  But, according to one of the wine publications, there are
some 120,000 different wines, counting regions, wineries, varietals and
available vintages, at any given time on current sale in the US,
including active imports, and they have rated that many wines.  Another
of the wine publications has ratings on file for some 273,000 wines
worldwide.  So for a wine drinker who wants to sample different wines,
having wine ratings and tasting notes, as imprecise as they may be, can
help narrow the field.

Before the 1970s, wines, and vintages, had reputations, not ratings.
Wine ratings were invented in the 1970s, largely to help guide otherwise
bewildered Americans who were just beginning the explore the world of
wine beyond the often unremarkable American wines of the time.  But in
some ways the ratings phenomenon turned into a monster, because once
ratings came into widespread use, sellers would automatically bump up the
posted prices of high rated wines.  One perverse effect was that vintners
started tweaking their wines to appeal to what they thought to be the
taste preferences of the rating panels, to imitate the taste of existing
high rated wines, so sameness and big taste came to encroach on subtlety
and individuality.  There was rating inflation, driven by retailers
posting on shelves only the highest rating of the three ratings available
for any given wine, which in turn drives the raters to issue yet higher
ratings in pursuit of greater visibility and prestige for their
publication.  At the same time, there is some sense that wines have
generally improved over the past 30 years or more, and that may in part
have been a result of ratings promoting quality consciousness, driving
vintners to compete more on quality.  Also, an expanding middle class
around much of the world is creating unprecedented demand for good wine,
which is probably good news for American wineries, if they can remain
competitive.

Now, there is something of a backlash emerging against wine ratings, and
the Hodgson study makes good fodder for the wine drinker who has decided
to pay no attention to ratings.

.

.

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